Table of Contents
Let us examine in all their diversity the events which are observed experientially in the ebbing and flowing of the waters.
There is no noticeable tide in lakes, pools, and even in small seas.
This is because:
- The shortness of their basins give them different speeds at different hours of the day
This has little difference occurring among all their parts.
They are uniformly accelerated and retarded as much in front as behind; that is, to the east as to the west.
They acquire such alterations, moreover, little by little, and not through the opposition of a sudden obstacle and hindrance, or a sudden and great acceleration in the movement of the containing vessel.
The latter, with all its parts, becomes slowly and equally impressed with the same degree of velocity, and from this uniformity it follows that the contained water also receives the same impressions with little resistance or hesitation. Consequently the signs of rising and falling or of running to one extremity or the other are exhibited only obscurely.
This effect is also clearly seen in small artificial vessels, in which the contained water is impressed with the same degrees of speed, whenever the acceleration or retardation is made in slow and uniform increments. But in the basins of oceans which extend a great distance from east to west, the acceleration or retardation is much more noticeable and uneven when one extremity of them is in a very retarded motion and the other is moving quickly.
- The reciprocal oscillation of the water instituted by the impetus already received from the motion of its container, which oscillation (as we have remarked) makes its vibrations with high frequency in small vessels.
There inheres in the terrestrial movements a cause for conferring a movement upon the waters only from one twelve-hour period to another, since only once a day is the movement of the containing vessel exceedingly accelerated or retarded.
This second cause depends upon the weight of the water, which seeks to restore it to equilibrium, and it produces oscillations of one, two, or three hours, and so on, according to the shortness of the vessel. Thus the whole movement becomes entirely insensible upon this one being combined with the first, which even by itself remains very small for small vessels. For the primary cause, which has a period of twelve hours, will not have finished impressing its disturbance when overtaken and reversed by this second one depending upon the weight of the water and having a vibration time of one, two, three, or four hours, and so on, according to the shortness and depth of the basin.
Acting contrary to the first cause, this perturbs and removes that without ever allowing it to attain the height, or even the average of its motion. Any evidence of ebbing or flowing is entirely annihilated by this conflict, or is very much obscured. I say nothing of the continual changing of the wind, which by disquieting the water would not permit us to be sure of some very small rising or falling, of half an inch or less, which might actually belong to the basins and containers of bodies of water no more than one degree or so in length.
There resides in the primary principle no cause of moving the waters except from one 12-hour period to another (that is, once by the maximum speed of motion and once by its maximum slowness), the period of ebbing and flowing nevertheless commonly appears to be from one six-hour period to another.
Such a determination, I say, can in no way come from the primary cause alone. The secondary causes must be introduced for it; that is, the greater or lesser length of the vessels and the greater or lesser depth of the waters contained in them. These causes, although they do not operate to move the waters (that action being from the primary cause alone, without which there would be no tides), are nevertheless the principal factors in limiting the duration of the reciprocations, and operate so powerfully that the primary cause must bow to them.
Six hours, then, is not a more proper or natural period for these reciprocations than any other interval of time, though perhaps it has been the one most generally observed because it is that of our Mediterranean, which has been the only place practicable for making observations over many centuries. Even so, this period is not observed everywhere in it; in some of the narrower places, such as the Hellespont and the Aegean, the periods are much briefer, and they are also quite variable among themselves. Some say it was because of these differences and the incomprehensibility of their causes to Aristotle that he, after observing them for a long time from some cliffs of Euboea (Negroponte), plunged into the sea in a fit of despair and willfully destroyed himself.
In the third place we shall see very readily the reason why a sea like the Red Sea, although very long, is nevertheless quite devoid of any tide. This is so because its length does not extend from east to west, but runs from southeast to northwest. The movements of the earth being from west to east, the impulses of the water are always aimed against the meridians and not from one parallel to another. Hence in seas which extend lengthwise toward the poles and are narrow in the other direction, there is no cause of tides – unless it is that of sharing those of some other sea with which they may communicate and which is subject to large movements.
We can very easily understand, in the fourth place, the reasons why the ebbing and flowing are greatest at the extremities of gulfs as to rising and falling of the waters, and least in the middle parts. Daily experience shows us this here in Venice, sitUated at the end of the Adriatic, where the difference commonly amounts to as much as five or six feet; but in parts of the Mediterranean distant from the extremities such changes are very small; as at the islands of Corsica and Sardinia, and on the coasts at Rome and Leghorn, where they do not exceed half a foot. We understand also why, on the other hand, where the rising and falling are small, the running to and fro is large. It is a simple thing, I say, to understand the cause of these events, because we have examples of them easily observable in all sorts of artificially manufactured vessels, in which the same effects are seen to follow naturally when we move them unevenly; that is, now accelerating and now retarding them.
Let us consider further, in the fifth place, how a given quantity of water moving slowly in a spacious channel must run very impetuously when it has to pass through a narrow place. From this we shall have no difficulty in understanding the cause of the great current which is created in the narrow channel that separates Calabria from Sicily. For all the water pent up by the extensive island and the Ionian Gulf in the eastern part of the sea, though because of the spaciousness there it descends slowly toward the west, yet upon being restrained in the Straits of Messina between Scylla and Charybdis, it drops rapidly and makes a great agitation. Something similar to this, but greater, is said to occur between Africa and the great island of Madagascar (San Lorenzo), when the waters of the two great Indian and South Atlantic (Etiopico) oceans, in whose midst this lies, must be restricted in their running into the still smaller channel between it and the coast of South Africa. The currents in the Straits of Magellan must be extremely great, communicating between the South Atlantic and the South Pacific oceans.
In the sixth place, in order to give reasons for some more recondite and curious events that are observed in this field, it remains now for us to make another important reflection upon the two principal causes of the tides, thereafter compounding them and mixing them together. The first and simplest of these, as I .have often said, is the definite acceleration and retardation of the parts of the earth from which the waters receive a determinate period, running toward the east and returning to the west within a space of twenty-four hours. The other depends upon the water’s own weight, which, once moved by the primary cause, tries then to restore itself to equilibrium by repeated oscillations which are not determinate as to one preestablished time alone, but which have differences of duration according to the different lengths and depths of the containers and basins of the oceans. In so far as they depend upon this second principle, some would flow and return in one hour, some in two, in four, in six, in eight, in ten, etc.
Now if we commence to add the first cause, which has an established period of twelve hours, to the second when it has for example a period of five, then it will sometimes happen that the primary and secondary causes agree in making their impulses both in the same direction; and in such a conjunction ( or, so to speak, in such a unanimous conspiracy) the tides will be very great. At other times it happens that the primary impulse becomes in a certain sense contrary to that brought by the secondary; and in such encounters one impulse takes away what the other gives, so that the motion of the waters is weakened and the sea is reduced to a very peaceful and practically motionless state. At still other times, when the two principles are not in opposition nor yet entirely unified, they cause other variations in the rise and fall of the tides.
It may also happen that two very large seas which are in communication through some narrow channel are found to have, because of the mixture of the two principles of motion, a cause of flood in one at the very time the other is having the contrary movement. In this case extraordinary agitations are made in the channel through which they communicate, with opposing motions and vortexes and most dangerous churnings, of which in fact we hear continual tales and accounts. From such discordant movements, depending not only upon different situations and lengths, but even more upon the differing depths of the communicating seas, there sometimes arise various disorderly and unobservable aquatic commotions whose causes have perturbed sailors very much, and still do, when encountered in the absence either of gusts of wind or other significant atmospheric changes which might account for them.
Now these disturbances of the air must be carefully taken into consideration with the other phenomena, and regarded as a third occasional cause capable of greatly altering our observations of effects dependent upon the primary and more essential causes. For there is no doubt that strong winds blowing continuously from the east, for instance, may sustain the waters, preventing their ebb. If then a second recurrence of the high tide, and even a third, is added at the established hours, the waters will swell up very high. In such away, sustained for several days by the force of the wind, they may be raised much more than usual, and make extraordinary floods. We must also take notice of another cause of movement, and this will be our seventh problem. This depends upon the great quantity of water from the rivers that empty into seas which are not vast, for which reason the water is seen to run always in the same direction in channels or straits through which such seas communicate, as happens in the Thracian Bosporus below Constantinople, where the water runs always from the Black Sea toward the Sea of Marmara (Propontide). For the Black Sea the principal causes of ebb and flow are not very effective, because of its shortness; while on the other hand very large rivers empty into it, and this great flow of water must be passed and disgorged through the strait, where the current is quite famous and is always toward the south. Moreover, we must take note that this strait or channel, though it is certainly very narrow, is not subjected to any such perturbations as the strait between Scylla and Charybdis; for the former has the Black Sea above it to the north, with the Sea of Marmara, the Aegean Sea, and the Mediterranean adjoining it to the south – though over a long tract, and, as we have already noted, however long a sea may be from north to south, it is not subject to tides. But since the Sicilian strait is situated between parts of the Mediterranean, extending a great distance from west to east – that is, with the tidal currents – the agitations in it are very great. They would be still greater at the Gates of Hercules, if the Straits of Gibraltar were less open; and the currents in the Straits of Magellan are reported to be extremely strong.
This is all that occurs to me at present to tell you about the causes of this basic diurnal period of the tides, and of their various incidental phenomena. If anything is to be brought up in connection with these, it may be done now; then we may proceed to the other two periods, the monthly and the annual.
Day 4d
Movements of the Water
Day 4e
The Revolution of the Earth
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