Bithura

Allahabad, February 7, 1984

Baba visited Kaushambi near Allahabad. Kaushambi was named after Rsi Kaushamba, an ancient Indian sage who had Rsi-kula (ashram) two centuries before Buddha. During Buddha’s time Kaushambi was the seat of learning in India and grew into a large city. Kaushambi was situated on the banks of the Saraswati river. The river flooded and destroyed the city which was rebuilt. If the area is excavated, the old city will be found in the second layer beneath the surface. As said earlier when the Saraswati river ceased to exist due to an earthquake the city lost its signi- ficance. The soil in the vicinity is sandy, a reminder of the Saras- wati’s impact on the land.

The temple Baba visited at Kaushambi contains nude male idols which have mukutas or head-dresses resembling a snake. Snakes are also carved on the outer side of the walls of the temple and the temple gates indicated the impact of Jainism on the temple architecture. Flowers, garlands and sandal paste are offered to the idols of the temple. The main deity is Padma- prabhu and a leg-print on a lotus with six or twelve petals can also be seen in the temple. The priest wears a sacred thread and uses the title Jain while this village is popularly called Garhwa; in court papers, it is still known as Kaushambi.

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Allahabad, February 9, 1984

Today Baba visited Bithura where there is a Valmiki Ashram, a temple of Sita, Lava and Kusha, and an idol of Saptarsi on which a snake is carved. In 1762, the second Baji Rao Peshwa constructed the main temples here but no ancient book or manuscript is available which might reveal something of the cultural history of the area. The Brahmans living here are mainly Dwivedis of the Rgvediya branch, and are mostly vegetarian. A Shiva temple is also situated here. Baba ob- served:

The land between the Ganga and the Jamuna rivers was known as Brahma’varta during Vaedic times, as mentioned earlier, and Vrs’n’ipura was its capital. Vrs’n’ipura is of great archaelogi cal and historical significance and the bricks found here give an indication of its age. The Aryans came here through Jambu- dwiipa or Jammu, Sapta Sindhu or Punjab, and Harita dhanya or Hariyana and travelled the long distance to Allahabad in different phases. The land between the Ganga and the Jamuna rivers where the distance was less than eighteen kilometers was very fertile, and was known as Brahmarsi Desh, a part of Brahmavarta. Some 3,500 years ago, during the days of the Mahabharata, it was known as Shurasena, and its capital was

• Lava and Kusha are sons of Ram born to Sita according to the epic Ramayana.

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situated at Mathura. Kamsa ruled over this land during the time of Krishna. A complete history of the area based on thorough research has yet to be written. The Kayasthas of Mathura are known as Mathur Shurasena was situated on the other side. of the Ganga and the Kayasthas living there are known as Sakhasena. Vrindavana was situated outside Brahmavarta. Avadha comprised of the area in and around Brahmavarta. The language of Shurasena was derived from Sanskrit. Some 4,000 years ago the language spoken to the east of Prayaga was Magadhi Prakita, and to the west of Prayaga Shauraseni Prakrt was spoken. Shauraseni Prakrta gave birth to five daughter lan- guages Avadhi, Bundeli, Bagheli. Braja, and Hariyanavi. Hari- yanavi was spoken to the west of the Jamuna river. Further west Paeshacii Prakrta was once the popular language giving birth to four daughter languages-Dogri, Pahari, Punjabi. and Multani. Ves’n’ipura was situated on the bank of the Ganga river. The sail here is alluvial and very soft. Normally hard soil is compressed one inch every one hundred years, but soft soil can be compressed six to eight inches during the same period. The land here has receded greatly and flood has frequently occurred. Abur 3,000 to 4,000 years ago, Vrs’n’ipura was com- pletely destroyed due to severe flood and the capital was shifted to Mathura. The soil around the Jamuna river is of the black cotton variety, and is very good for growing cotton and wheat. Between 500 and 1.200 years ago, Vrs’n’ipura faced another severe Blood, completely destroying the city again and killing many people. For many years people were afraid to live there as they had a deep fear of ghosts and believed that the city was haunted. It took two to three hundred years before people resettled in the city. Historically, Vrs’n’ipura is very similar to Mohenjodaro. Shankaracharya, who lived around 1,300 years ago was not popular in this area. Kapil, the first philosopher in the world was more popular, and a temple was constructed here in his memory. Shiva was his Ista or deity of worship, hence a Shiva temple was also constructed here.

At the height of its glory the Maratha Empire extended from Hariyana to Dharwara.

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However divisions occurred and the Maratha Empire was split into five parts: the Peshwas of Pune who were Brahmans; the Bhonsles of Nagpur, the Sindhias of Gwalior, the Holkars of Indore and Gackwads of Baroda. Tem- ples were constructed after the death of Aurangzeb, as he never permitted the construction or renovation of temples in his life- time. About 175 years ago Balaji Baji Rao renovated the temple buildings. The bricks and style of architecture indicate that the temples there are not older than 250 years.

The influence of the Ramayana was great in this area exempli- Red by the temple of Sita, Lava and Kush and the construction of Valmiki Ashram. Valmiki lived near the Vindhya ranges and he did not have an ashram in Vrs’n’ipura.

Ves’n’ipura became Bithura through a process of philological metamorphosis. From the Sanskrit Vrs’n’ipura came Bishura in Shauraseni Prakrta, Bitthura in demi-Shauraseni 2,500 years Age, Bitthura in old Avadhi 1,000 years ago and Bithura in pre- sent day Avadhii-a philological transformation covering about 4,000 years.

Normally, temples are of four architectural styles-Rajawara, Gauriiya, Utkal and Dravida, Here, there is a blending of Raja- wara and Muslim styles with the latter having a tomb style of construction at the top. In India, people started learning how to make bricks in the Pathan period. But during the time of the Moghuls, it was a popular style of brick and is an example of Persian influence on Indian architecture. Gambuja or tomb style of construction became prevalent in the building of mos- ques, Mazaras and mausoleums between 500 and 750 years ago. Gothic style of architecture became popular during the British period. No visible construction here at Bithura is more than 750 years old, although the deities in the temple are older than that. if excavations are carried out here, the old historical city of Vranipura will be found.

Kanpur, Feb. 14, 1984

49 [Kanpur is the foremost industrial city of Uttar Pradesh. It In the foremost of cities of Avadhi civilisation, pessessing charac- teristics of medieval northern India. ]

Today, Baba visited Jajmau and the bird sanctuary of Na- wabganj, situated forty km. from Kanpur. At Jajmau, on both sides of the road, there are mounds beside the Ganga river on which a mosque and a temple can be seen. Baba said that Maq- doom Shah, a famous Muslim yogi and aulia (saint) lived here little before Akbar. Baba further said:

On one side of the Ganga. a Muslim king ruled, and on the other side, a Hindu king held the throne. Kausal and Shravasti were situated on either sides of the Ganga in ancient times. The name of the land on both sides of the Ganga was Kanyakubja and Kanyakubja Brahmans lived in the area. The Muslims ruled over the whole territory during the time of Aurangzeb.

After examining a thin rough brick found here Baba said that Jajmau was not older than 500 years. Here, on this side of Doab King Yayati Verman ruled. His son, Amar Verman, was a notorious king and was despised by his subjects, who be- came supporters of the Nawab. The kingdom was then destroyed. During that time the Pathans had not yet established themselves on the eastern side of the Ganga, but they were gradually ad- vancing towards it. The kingdom of Avadh covered both sides of the river.

At the Nawabganj bird-sanctuary, Baba said that flocks of birds came here from cold countries like Siberia, West Tibet, outer Mongolia, east Russia and northern China in the second half of October, and returned by the first half of March, as they cannot tolerate the heat of the summer season.

The birds lay their eggs here and when their young ones are able to fly, they return to their rspective habitats. Other flocks of birds fly to another sanctuary at Sundarban from cold places like eastern Tibet and inner Mongolia during the same season.

A third sanctuary exists in the district of Bharatpur of Rajas- than. However, the lake at Bharatpur is rapidly drying up and threatening the lives of the birds in the sactuary. Five factors are essential for a bird-sanctuary a lake, plants, a cold climate, aquatic weeds, and fishes and animals for food.

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The lake may or may not be deep, but the site must possess these five factors. A lake attracts fish like ‘Rewa’ which, together with insects are readily available sources of food for birds and their progeny. By some instinct the same birds come to the same sanctuary every year. This has been verified by putting a small band or ring aro- und the birds’ legs and watching their migratory habits. After the young hatch from their eggs, they are fed with insects and regurgitated food, and when they are strong enough they fly back to their original habitats with the rest of the flock. Baba named the Nawabganj bird sanctuary “Nirbhaya Kanana.

Agra Feb. 16, 1984

[ Agra is a famous historical town, known for the Tajmahal projecting a glorious architectural blending of Rajwara, Semitic and Gothie styles. It depicts the characteristics of Jamuna-valley civilisation, where in Krsna lived, 3000 years ago.

The great Saint-poet of Braj bhasa, Suradas also lived nearby ].

Today, Baba visited Surasarovara, Sura Kutii and Sura Kupa, at Agra He said that Surasarovara was named after Suradas who performed spiritual practices and was a great poet of Braja whose life and works are glory to India. While returning to His residence, Baba dedicated a Prabhat Samgeet to the great poet. Later, Baba visited the Tajahal, where He made the follo- wing comments: “The Turkish architecture of the Taj is a blending of Semitic and Gothic styles. The Arabs were highly influenced by these styles, using them to construct mosques, mazars and mausoleums. The original home of the Gothic style was southern Greece. Many old Catholic churches were constructed in this style, which was also highly influential in Persia. At places around the Taj, the Raja- wara style is also visible, especially the entrance gate. Artisans and masons were hired from several places in Rajasthan like Bha- ratpur, Alwar, Jaipur, and Pokhran to help construct the Taj

51 Mahal, and materials were brought from all over the world. Mounds of earth were built around the Taj so that the artisans. could work easily, sitting if they so desired as fine craftmanship is not always possible in a standing posture. After the comple- tion of the work, the soil was taken away.

The sail here is soft, alluvial soil from the Ganga and the Jamuna rivers. Large structures sink down into it. The soil is not very old, but is very fertile and is excellent for growing wheat but not for paddy. In ancient times, this area was beneath the ***.

More recently, however it was the capital of the Moghul Empire when Shah Jahan ascended the throne. Later, he built his capital at Raisiina, the present New Delhi.

There is little water in the Jamuna river during February, it shall decrease even further as the incoming water from the Jamu- nottari recedes in volume. The rainfall has lessened at Jamuno- rtant because the severity of winter has declined and so has the snowfall There is plenty of underground water here, but ex- cessive use of deep tube-wells would reduce the amount of water flowing into the Jamuna river and make the water saltish. It shall also affect the quality of the soil.

Soil naturally compresses with time. However, the exten- sive use of tube wells creates a vacuum under surface layers of the earth, and as a consequence, soil compacts and compresses more rapidly. In Bengal the soil is soft and the water level is high, and the extensive use of tube-wells tends to make the water

A refinery is necessary in Agra, but if it is built the Taj should not be affected by the gaseous emissions and pollusion from the refinery. It would be best if the refinery were situated at a safe distance from the Taj. The Braja area has little indus- trial development which is essential for solving the high unem- ployment problem in the area. The Tajmahal is a symbol of architectural distinction and Achievement, and is the biggest building in the world made of Jamnotri is the place in the Himalyas from where Jamuna originates.

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white marble. There are three types of marbles–white, cream and supra-white. It is very diflicult to construct a building of supra white marble. The Victoria Memorial Hall in Calcutta is made of cream-coloured marble. Shah Jahan was fond of white marble, while Akbar liked red marble. Baba examined a cycad tree, and said that its Sanskrit name was Mayakharjura. The cycad tree was a delicious food for the dinosaur and pre-dates human existence, which is 1 million years old in Madhu Malanca, Baba’s residence in Calcutta, there are twenty varieties of Mayakharjura from all over the world. Be- sides eyead trees, Shah Jahan was also fond of Cinara. Jahangir had brought it from Persia and planted it in Kasmir. When they Hower, they appear as if the trees are alive with fire. The Kash- mir government has rightly banned the felling of these precious

Agra, Feb. 19, 1984

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Today Baba visited the Etmaduddaulla Park, built in memory af Etmadudaulla, the father of Meharunnissa*. Etmaduddaulla Was a nobleman and a Shia muslim by faith and his real name Was Mirza Gayas Beg. Gayas Beg moved to Agra because his relatives lived there. Agra was previously known as Agrapur and during the time of Akbar it was known as Akbarabad. Gayas Beg was awarded the title “Etmadaddullah” by Jahangir because of his reliability. Meharunnissa married Sher Afghan, the Subedar or governor of Bengal. Burdwan was then the capi- tal of Bengal. Later, when Jahangir became the Mughal emperor, Sher Afghan was killed in battle near the Burdwan railway station by the Moghul army, and his grave is located at Piir Baharam. The capital of Bengal was shifted several times-from Bur- dwan to Rajmahal, to Dhaka, to Murshidadad, and at present it is situated in Calcutta.

Agra Feb. 17. 1984

Today, Baba went to the Bharatpur bird-sanctuary after visi-1 ting Fatehpur Sikri. The sanctuary originally to belonged to the King of Bharatpur who handed it over to the government on the advice of Salim Ali, who was an authority on birds. It was declared a national park in 1984. Baba had already explained that birds come here in winter and leave before summer starts. Several varieties of geese and slopes are found here, and acasia babula also grows in abun-

A temple known as Kevala Deva temple stands nearby. shiva is the deity of the temple and its architecture is a blending of Rajawara and Semitic styles.

Baba also visited the Dargah of Sheikh Salim Cisti, where the palace of Todar Mal who was the land revenue minister of Akbar, is situated. However, Baba only viewed the place from

Agra, Feb. 21, 1984

Today Baba visited a garden near the Tajmahal. While walking. He said that Meharunnissa’s mother was Begum Sar- funnissa. Some controversy has arisen over the identity of her father, but Gayas Beg has been accepted as her legitimate father by most historians.

Baba also said that alluvial soil is commonly found in most places in India. At some places like north Bihar, northwest U.P., Himalayan Tarai, Etah and Manipur the presence of sodium nitrate has made the soil useless for agriculture. This problem can be solved and the land can be reclaimed if acid is used to neutralise the excess of sodium nitrate in the soil. In the north and east Bengal alkaline soil has been neutralised by planting pineapple plantations, which need sixteen inches of rainfall *Meharunnisa was later married to the Mughal emperor Jahangir, after assassination of Sher Afgan.

When Baba was told that there was once a sun-temple,beside the pond but that it was destroyed, He said that such desecration destroys valuable historical records. Idols, as well as ancient temples and manuscripts should be preserved. Those who do not believe in idol-worship should preserve ancient idols in museums. In Vikramshila and Nalanda, valuable books on Buddhism were destroyed. They were used to cook the food of marauding soldiers. Tibetan translations of these books were discovered in Tibet, but the original Sanskrit books are no longer available.

The language of this area is Haryanvii, which has three dialects: at Ambala, at Alwar which has been influenced by Marwari and Dhundhari, the dialect spoken around Jaipur and A blending of at Baraeli which has been influenced by Avadhi. Haryanvii and Garhwaliis is spoken around Haridwar (UP).

Braja language has its influence over the dialect around Bharatpur. Dhundhari dialect is sweet, though many of the words are not so sweet. The size of the sacred thread worn around the upper part of the body determines the section of Brahmanas. Rgvediya Brah- mans wear the thread above the waist, Yajurvediya Brahmans. wear the thread just below the neck, and Atharvavediya Brahmans wear it to the waist. Rgvediya Brahmans and Yajurvediya Brah- mans are mostly vegetarians, while Atharvavediya Brahmans are Hon vegetarians.

If excavations of this place are done, relics and remnants of a period of 200 to 250 years earlier than the Pathan period can be found.