Guatemala and its Rich Commmoidies

The Volcano Of Guatemala. Its Rich Commodities: Indigo, Otta Or Anatta, Cochineel, Silvester. Driftwood, Pumice-Stones

We saw land on the 14th day in latitude 12 degrees 50 minutes as the volcano of Guatemala.

This is a very high mountain with two peaks or heads appearing like two sugar-loaves. It often belches forth flames of fire and smoke from between the two heads.

The Spaniards report this happens chiefly in tempestuous weather. It is called so from the city Guatemala, which stands near the foot of it about 8 leagues from the South Sea, and by report 40 or 50 leagues from the Gulf of Matique in the Bay of Honduras, in the North Seas.

This city is famous for many rich commodities that are produced thereabouts (some almost peculiar to this country) and yearly sent into Europe, especially four rich dyes, indigo, otta or anatta, silvester, and cochineel.

Indigo is made of an herb which grows 1.5-2 feet high, full of small branches full of leaves, resembling the leaves which grow on flax, but more thick and substantial.

They cut this herb or shrub and cast it into a large cistern made in the ground for that purpose, which is half full of water.

The indigo stalk or herb remains in the water till all the leaves and, I think, the skin, rind, or bark rot off, and in a manner dissolve: but, if any of the leaves should stick fast, they force them off by much labour, tossing and tumbling the mass in the water till all the pulpy substance is dissolved.

Then the shrub, or woody part, is taken out, and the water, which is like ink, being disturbed no more, settles, and the indigo falls to the bottom of the cistern like mud. When it is thus settled they draw off the water and take the mud and lay it in the sun to dry: which there becomes hard, as you see it brought home.

Otta, or anatta, is a red sort of dye made of a red flower that grows on shrubs 7 or 8 foot high.

It is thrown into a cistern of water as the indigo is, but with this difference that there is no stalk, nor so much as the head of the flower, but only the flower itself pulled off from the head, as you peel rose-leaves from the bud.

This remains in the water till it rots, and by much jumbling it dissolves to a liquid substance like the indigo; and, being settled and the water drawn off, the red mud is made up into rolls or cakes, and laid in the sun to dry.

I did never see any made but at a place called the Angels in Jamaica, at Sir Thomas Muddiford’s plantations, about 20 years since; but was grubbed up while I was there, and the ground otherwise employed. I do believe there is none anywhere else on Jamaica: and even this probably was owing to the Spaniards when they had that island. Indigo is common enough in Jamaica.

I observed they planted it most in sandy ground: they sow great fields of it and I think they sow it every year; but I did never see the seeds it bears.

Indigo is produced all over the West Indies, on most of the Caribbean Islands as well as the Main; yet no part of the Main yields such great quantities both of indigo and otta as this country about Guatemala.

Otta is made now only by the Spaniards; for since the destroying that at the Angels Plantation in Jamaica I have not heard of any improvement made of this commodity by our countrymen anywhere; and as to Jamaica, I have since been informed that it is wholly left off there. I know not what quantities either of indigo or otta are made at Cuba or Hispaniola: but the place most used by our Jamaica sloops for these things is the island Porto Rico, where our Jamaica traders did use to buy indigo for three rials, and otta for four rials the pound, which is but 2 shillings and 3 pence of our money: and yet at the same time otta was worth in Jamaica 5 shillings the pound, and indigo 3 shillings and 6 pence the pound; and even this also paid in goods; by which means alone they got 50-60%.

Our traders had not then found the way of trading with the Spaniards in the Bay of Honduras; but Captain Coxon went thither (as I take it) at the beginning of the year 1679, under pretence to cut log-wood, and went into the Gulf of Matique which is in the bottom of that bay.

There he landed with his canoes and took a whole store-house full of indigo and otta in chests, piled up in several parcels and marked with different marks ready to be shipped aboard two ships that then lay in the road purposely to take it in; but these ships could not come at him, it being shoal-water. He opened some of the chests of indigo and, supposing the other chests to be all of the same species, ordered his men to carry them away. They immediately set to work, and took the nearest at hand; and having carried out one heap of chests, they seized on another great pile of a different mark from the rest, intending to carry them away next.

But a Spanish gentleman, their prisoner, knowing that there was a great deal more than they could carry away, desired them to take only such as belonged to the merchants (whose marks he undertook to show them) and to spare such as had the same mark with those in that great pile they were then entering upon; because, he said, those chests belonged to the ship-captains who, following the seas as themselves did, he hoped they would, for that reason, rather spare their goods than the merchants.

They consented to his request; but upon their opening their chests (which was not before they came to Jamaica, where by connivance they were permitted to sell them) they found that the Don had been too sharp for them; the few chests which they had taken of the same mark with the great pile proving to be otta, of greater value by far than the other; whereas they might as well have loaded the whole ship with otta, as with indigo.

The cochineel is an insect bred in a sort of fruit much like the prickly-pear. The tree or shrub that bears it is like the prickly-pear-tree, about five foot high, and so prickly; only the leaves are not quite so big, but the fruit is bigger. On the top of the fruit there grows a red flower: this flower, when the fruit is ripe, falls down on the top of the fruit, which then begins to open, and covers it so that no rain nor dew can wet the inside.

The next day, or two days after its falling down, the flower being then scorched away by the heat of the sun, the fruit opens as broad as the mouth of a pint-pot, and the inside of the fruit is by this time full of small red insects with curious thin wings. As they were bred here, so here they would die for want of food, and rot in their husks (having by this time eaten up their mother-fruit) did not the Indians, who plant large fields of these trees, when once they perceive the fruit open, take care to drive them out: for they spread under the branches of the tree a large linen cloth, and then with sticks they shake the branches and so disturb the poor insects that they take wing to be gone, yet hovering still over the head of their native tree, but the heat of the sun so disorders them that they presently fall down dead on the cloth spread for that purpose, where the Indians let them remain two or three days longer till they are thoroughly dry. When they fly up they are red, when they fall down they are black; and when first they are quite dry they are white as the sheet wherein they lie, though the colour change a little after. These yield the much esteemed scarlet. The cochineel-trees are called by the Spaniard toonas: they are planted in the country about Guatemala, and about Cheapo and Guaxaca, all three in the kingdom of Mexico.

The silvester is a red grain growing in a fruit much resembling the cochineel-fruit; as does also the tree that bears it. There first shoots forth a yellow flower, then comes the fruit, which is longer than the cochineel-fruit. The fruit being ripe opens also very wide. The inside being full of these small seeds or grains they fall out with the least touch or shake. The Indians that gather them hold a dish under to receive the seed and then shake it down. These trees grow wild; and eight or ten of these fruits will yield an ounce of seed: but of the cochineel fruits three or four will yield an ounce of insects.

The silvester gives a colour almost as fair as the cochineel and so like it as to be often mistaken for it, but it is not near so valuable. I often made enquiry how the silvester grows, and of the cochineel; but was never fully satisfied till I met a Spanish gentleman that had lived 30 years in the West Indies, and some years where these grow; and from him I had these relations. He was a very intelligent person and pretended to be well acquainted in the Bay of Campeachy; therefore I examined him in many particulars concerning that bay, where I was well acquainted myself, living there three years. He gave very true and pertinent answers to all my demands, so that I could have no distrust of what he related.

When we first saw the mountain of Guatemala we were by judgment 25 leagues distance from it. As we came nearer the land it appeared higher and plainer, yet we saw no fire but a little smoke proceeding from it. The land by the sea was of a good height yet but low in comparison with that in the country. The sea for about eight or ten leagues from the shore was full of floating trees, or driftwood, as it is called (of which I have seen a great deal but nowhere so much as here) and pumice-stones floating, which probably are thrown out of the burning mountains and washed down to the shore by the rains, which are very violent and frequent in this country; and on the side of Honduras it is excessively wet.

The Coast Further On The North-West. Captain Townley’S Fruitless Expedition Towards Tecoantepeque.

The 24th day we were in latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes north, and the weather more settled. Then Captain Townley took with him 106 men in nine canoes and went away to the westward where he intended to land and rummage in the country for some refreshment for our sick men, we having at this time near half our men sick, and many were dead since we left Realejo. We in the ships lay still with our topsails furled and our corses or lower sails hauled up this day and the next that Captain Townley might get the start of us.

The 26th day we made sail again, coasting to the westward, having the wind at north and fair weather. We ran along by a tract of very high land which came from the eastward, more within land than we could see; after we fell in with it it bore us company for about 10 leagues, and ended with a pretty gentle descent towards the west.

There we had a perfect view of a pleasant low country which seemed to be rich in pasturage for cattle. It was plentifully furnished with groves of green trees mixed among the grassy savannahs: here the land was fenced from the sea with high sandy hills, for the waves all along this coast run high, and beat against the shore very boisterously, making the land wholly unapproachable in boats or canoes: so we coasted still along by this low land, eight or nine leagues farther, keeping close to the shore for fear of missing Captain Townley. We lay by in the night and in the day made an easy sail.

The 2nd day of October Captain Townley came aboard; he had coasted along shore in his canoes, seeking for an entrance, but found none. At last, being out of hopes to find any bay, creek, or river, into which he might safely enter, he put ashore on a sandy bay, but overset all his canoes: he had one man drowned, and several lost their arms, and some of them that had not waxed up their cartage or cartouche boxes wet all their powder.

Captain Townley with much ado got ashore and dragged the canoes up dry on the bay; then every man searched his cartouche box and drew the wet powder out of his gun, and provided to march into the country but, finding it full of great creeks which they could not ford, they were forced to return again to their canoes.

In the night they made good fires to keep themselves warm; the next morning 200 Spaniards and Indians fell on them but were immediately repulsed, and made greater speed back than they had done forward. Captain Townley followed them, but not far for fear of his canoes. These men came from Tehuantapec, a town that Captain Townley went chiefly to seek because the Spanish books make mention of a large river there; but whether it was run away at this time, or rather Captain Townley and his men were short-sighted, I know not; but they could not find it.

Upon his return we presently made sail, coasting still westward, having the wind at east-north-east fair weather and a fresh gale. We kept within two mile of the shore, sounding all the way; and found at six miles distance from land 19 fathom; at eight miles distance 21 fathom, gross sand.

The Island Tangola, And Neighbouring Continent.

We saw no opening nor sign of any place to land at, so we sailed about 20 leagues farther and came to a small high island called Tangola, where there is good anchoring. The island is indifferently well furnished with wood and water, and lies about a league from the shore. The Main against the island is pretty high champion savannah land by the sea; but two or three leagues within land it is higher and very woody.

Guatulco Port. The Buffadore, Or Water-Spout.

We coasted a league farther and came to Guatulco. This port is in latitude 15 degrees 30 minutes. It is one of the best in all this kingdom of Mexico. Near a mile from the mouth of the harbour on the east side there is a little island close by the shore; and on the west side of the mouth of the harbour there is a great hollow rock, which by the continual working of the sea in and out makes a great noise, which may be heard a great way. Every surge that comes in forces the water out of a little hole on its top, as out of a pipe, from whence it flies out just like the blowing of a whale; to which the Spaniards also liken it. They call this rock and spout the Buffadore: upon what account I know not. Even in the calmest seasons the sea beats in there, making the water spout at the hole: so that this is always a good mark to find the harbour by. The harbour is about three mile deep and one mile broad; it runs in north-west. But the west side of the harbour is best to ride in for small ships; for there you may ride land-locked: whereas anywhere else you are open to the south-west winds which often blow here. There is good clean ground anywhere, and good gradual soundings from 16 to 6 fathom; it is bounded with a smooth sandy shore, very good to land at; and at the bottom of the harbour there is a fine brook of fresh water running into the sea.

Ruins Of Guatulco Village

Here formerly stood a small Spanish village which was taken by Sir Francis Drake.

But now there is nothing remaining of it beside a little chapel standing among the trees about 200 paces from the sea.

The land appears in small short ridges parallel to the shore and to each other, the innermost still gradually higher than that nearer the shore.

They are all clothed with very high flourishing trees, that it is extraordinary pleasant and delightful to behold at a distance: I have nowhere seen anything like it.

Captain Townley Marches To The River Capalita.

At this place Captain Swan, who had been very sick, came ashore, and all the sick men with him, and the surgeon to tend them. Captain Townley again took a company of men with him and went into the country to seek for houses or inhabitants. He marched away to the eastward and came to the river Capalita: which is a swift river, yet deep near the mouth, and is about a league from Guatulco. There two of his men swam over the river and took three Indians that were placed there as sentinels to watch for our coming. These could none of them speak Spanish; yet our men by signs made them understand that they desired to know if there was any town or village near; who by the signs which they made gave our men to understand that they could guide them to a settlement: but there was no understanding by them whether it was a Spanish or Indian settlement, nor how far it was thither. They brought these Indians aboard with them, and the next day, which was the 6th day of October, Captain Townley with 140 men (of whom I was one) went ashore again, taking one of these Indians with us for a guide to conduct us to this settlement.

TURTLE AT GUATULCO. AN INDIAN SETTLEMENT

Our men that stayed aboard filled our water, and cut wood, and mended our sails: and our Moskito men struck three or four turtle every day. They were a small sort of turtle, and not very sweet, yet very well esteemed by us all because we had eaten no flesh a great while. The 8th day we returned out of the country, having been about 14 miles directly within land before we came to any settlement. There we found a small Indian village, and in it a great quantity of vinelloes drying in the sun.

THE VINELLO-PLANT AND FRUIT

The vinello is a little cod full of small black seeds; it is four or five inches long, about the bigness of the stem of a tobacco leaf, and when dried much resembling it: so that our privateers at first have often thrown them away when they took any, wondering why the Spaniards should lay up tobacco stems. This cod grows on a small vine which climbs about and supports itself by the neighbouring trees: it first bears a yellow flower from whence the cod afterwards proceeds.

It is first green, but when ripe it turns yellow; then the Indians (whose manufacture it is, and who sell it cheap to the Spaniards) gather it, and lay it in the sun, which makes it soft; then it changes to a chestnut-colour. Then they frequently press it between their fingers, which makes it flat.

If the Indians do anything to them beside I know not; but I have seen the Spaniards sleek them with oil.

These vines grow plentifully at Boca Toro, where I have gathered and tried to cure them, but could not: which makes me think that the Indians have some secret that I know not of to cure them. I have often asked the Spaniards how they were cured, but I never could meet with any could tell me.

One Mr. Cree also, a very curious person who spoke Spanish well and had been a privateer all his life, and seven years a prisoner among the Spaniards at Portobello and Cartagena, yet upon all his enquiry could not find any of them that understood it. Could we have learnt the art of it several of us would have gone to Boca Toro yearly at the dry season and cured them, and freighted our vessel. We there might have had turtle enough for food, and store of vinelloes.

Mr. Cree first showed me those at Boca Toro. At or near a town also, called Caihooca in the Bay of Campeachy, these cods are found.

They are commonly sold for three pence a cod among the Spaniards in the West Indies, and are sold by the druggist, for they are much used among chocolate to perfume it. Some will use them among tobacco for it gives a delicate scent. I never heard of any vinelloes but here in this country, about Caihooca, and at Boca Toro.

The Indians of this village could speak but little Spanish. They seemed to be a poor innocent people: and by them we understood that there are very few Spaniards in these parts; yet all the Indians hereabout are under them. The land from the sea to their houses is black earth mixed with some stones and rocks; all the way full of very high trees.

The 10th day we sent four canoes to the westward who were ordered to lie for us at Port Angels; where we were in hopes that by some means or other they might get prisoners that might give us a better account of the country than at present we could have; and we followed them with our ships, all our men being now pretty well recovered of the fever which had raged amongst as ever since we departed from Realejo.